Info Beginners Guide To BP/W

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

for that price (i presume singel tank diving), just get a freedom plate (i know, waiting list) for $250 and an VDH #18 $239 combined with a standard harnes pack for ~$50 and 2 cambands ~$50 Less than $600 and you get gear as good as it gets.

The new Freedom Contour - The Rolex of backplates.
I was pointed to that person as well about the Freedom plates. The waitlist is quite long I think based on what it sounded like from Eric's reply.

I have decided that I'm not getting the full SP package though. I'm going to build my own harness and I'm still figuring out what I want to do with plates and wing.

On the question of plates for noobs like myself, what is the difference in the ones that are out there? Like I see a DGX one for $80 or $90 for the SS option, but then I see the Hog and SP ones are like $160 and I've seen some for even more. What are the differences between the lower priced ones and the more expensive ones?

I'm also torn if I should get an AL or SS one at this point just based off my experience in the pool with the SS one and just sinking like a rock with no air in the wing. But, I didn't have a wetsuit on and I was in fresh water.

One of the reasons I'm asking about prices too is because I am thinking of maybe getting the SS wing from my LDS but it's the SP one so it's like $156, but she told me if I try the SS one she will let me just swap it for the AL one if the SS is too heavy. My goal is to get into the water with no weights if possible or just some trim weight on the BP/W. I don't want any weight pockets if I can get away with it.

For reference, with jacket style, in salt water with my full 3mm suit on I used 6lbs, 3lb on each side, and it was pretty much perfect I rarely had to put any air in my BCD while underwater other than a squirt here or there.
 
The main difference between the $90 dgx plate and the $160 Scuba pro plate is the scuba pro plate says scuba pro.

Given your salt water weighting, it sounds to me like a steel plate would be about perfect for use without any additional weight. Using an aluminum plate, however, would give you the flexibility of adjusting your trim by moving ~2-4 lbs around. You'll certainly have no need for weight pockets in either scenario.
 
For reference, with jacket style, in salt water with my full 3mm suit on I used 6lbs, 3lb on each side, and it was pretty much perfect I rarely had to put any air in my BCD while underwater other than a squirt here or there.

Assuming an AL80 tank, you're starting the dive with about 6 pounds of air. If you aren't adding enough air to your BC to compensate for most of that weight, at the end of the dive with a near empty tank you're going to be too light. In your scenario it looks like you're counting on the weight of some of that air as part of your required ballast.
 
Assuming an AL80 tank, you're starting the dive with about 6 pounds of air. If you aren't adding enough air to your BC to compensate for most of that weight, at the end of the dive with a near empty tank you're going to be too light. In your scenario it looks like you're counting on the weight of some of that air as part of your required ballast.
This was in Grand Cayman and the Keys, so I'm assuming AL tanks but can't say for sure.

I would put like a squirt or two or three into the BCD if need be.

I'm still a total noob so still trying to figure it out. But compared to when I first started my dives and had 14lbs of weight on me, it feels so much better with less weight and the instructors in my OW/AOW helped me figure out my weight after noticing I was overweighted.
 
Less weight is usually good, but you still need enough to be able to comfortably hold a stop at the end of the dive with a nearly empty tank. At the beginning of the dive your BC should have enough air in it to compensate for the weight of the gas in your tank in addition to any compression of your wet suit at depth(not much with a 3mm tropical suit, a lot with 7mm or thicker in cold water). I guess whether or not a "squirt or two or three" is enough depends on your definition The best time to do your weight check is at the end of the dive. If you can easily hang at your safety stop with a nearly empty tank and little to no air in your BC you've got it about right. I dive with a 30# wing and it's very easy when a little head down to reach back and feel how much air is in it. If it's more than a fistful or so at my safety stop then I think about dropping a little weight.
 
On the question of plates for noobs like myself, what is the difference in the ones that are out there? Like I see a DGX one for $80 or $90 for the SS option, but then I see the Hog and SP ones are like $160 and I've seen some for even more. What are the differences between the lower priced ones and the more expensive ones?

I haven't bought anything from aliexpress but I've seen a selection of backplates there that look just like the $160+ ones but cost less than $80. You gotta wonder: it's just a piece of metal. Maybe the edges are not de-burred and the distance between boltholes is off due to converting 11" to 8+ cun.
 
I haven't bought anything from aliexpress but I've seen a selection of backplates there that look just like the $160+ ones but cost less than $80. You gotta wonder: it's just a piece of metal. Maybe the edges are not de-burred and the distance between boltholes is off due to converting 11" to 8+ cun.
Yeah I could basically get an AL and SS generic plate for the cost of a name brand, and then I can figure out which I need lol.

For crotch straps, would a 2" one without any neoprene sleeve have a risk of chafing/abrasion on the wetsuit after some use? It would be the soft nylon material though not the stiffer stuff used for the harness. I'm looking into making my own and wondering if the 2" nylon would be a bad idea without some kind of protection.
 
For crotch straps, would a 2" one without any neoprene sleeve have a risk of chafing/abrasion on the wetsuit after some use? It would be the soft nylon material though not the stiffer stuff used for the harness. I'm looking into making my own and wondering if the 2" nylon would be a bad idea without some kind of protection.

I use a 2" croutch strap, generic without any padding.

I have after about 100 dives in the same suite 2/3mm not seen any signs of that.
 
I use a 2" croutch strap, generic without any padding.

I have after about 100 dives in the same suite 2/3mm not seen any signs of that.
Great thanks.

I need to stop doing research and just order the webbing and hardware for my harness and crotch strap lol.

If making my own crotch strap, 4 ft should be more than enough right? If I'm not mistaken they are typically 3ft long, but I'd assume that is with the loop already sewn in. I'll need extra length from the webbing to make the loop with.
 
Sorry for all the questions - close to ordering stuff.

Do most backplates work with STA's? Or do I have to specifically look for one that does?
 

Back
Top Bottom