Hatul
Contributor
I've never seen the evidence that the seat saver of the Atomic extends seat life, but I do know it's a pain when rinsing, especially on trips, where someone else may be taking care of you gear.
Can't decide between these two awesome regulators!
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The seat saver feature definitely reduces the chance for second stage air leaking issues. I have 3 Atomic regulators and I soak them in the water unpressurized with no water getting into the first stage. I'd get the Atomic with swivel and more important, sealed first stage if available on the Z3.
The MK25/S600 regulator is top notch and is probably one of the best in the market today too. I am not sure of the price difference between the Z3 and the MK25/S600, but you need to compare between the MK25/S600 and the Atomic model that comes the closest to this MK25/S600 regulator in price to be able to have a fair comparison (Probably the Atomic B2 is the equivalent to the Scubapro MK25/S600 model). Any Atomic regulator I buy, it must have a sealed first stage!
The MK25/S600 regulator is top notch and is probably one of the best in the market today too. I am not sure of the price difference between the Z3 and the MK25/S600, but you need to compare between the MK25/S600 and the Atomic model that comes the closest to this MK25/S600 regulator in price to be able to have a fair comparison (Probably the Atomic B2 is the equivalent to the Scubapro MK25/S600 model). Any Atomic regulator I buy, it must have a sealed first stage!
halocline
Contributor
Unless you cave dive every day, you're probably actually increasing the likelihood of failure by this much servicing. What you might do is make sure your MK20 gets updated with the MK25 piston; it locks up great and seems to hold perfect IP forever. I've seen MK20s with this piston (and MK25s) work perfectly for 6-7 years and/or 200+ dives between service, with good care and storage.
I'm working on my cave training, and I closely inspect my regs before entering a cavern zone (that's all I'm currently certified for) but it would never occur to me to increase the service interval. I use MK10s and a combination of D300 and balanced/adjustable 2nd stages.
Guys,
Thank you very much for your time replying. I have some more (newbie) questions:
1. Why is it important to have sealed first stage? What does it do? What if it's not sealed?
2. When you need to get your regulator serviced, how exactly do you do it? You send them back to the manufacturer or local dive shops?
3. Can I use Scubapro Mk25/s600 with AA Z3 second stage as octo? or they must be the same brand? I'm not sure how it works.
Thanks again!
Thank you very much for your time replying. I have some more (newbie) questions:
1. Why is it important to have sealed first stage? What does it do? What if it's not sealed?
2. When you need to get your regulator serviced, how exactly do you do it? You send them back to the manufacturer or local dive shops?
3. Can I use Scubapro Mk25/s600 with AA Z3 second stage as octo? or they must be the same brand? I'm not sure how it works.
Thanks again!
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1. If it's sealed it will eventually freeze up at much lower temperatures. We're pretty much talking ice diving or very cold lake/ocean depths. It also keeps silt and gunk out of the first stage.
2. Locally works. Ensure that the local shop you use is a certified dealer to keep your warranty intact. If you outfit yourself fully in ScubaPro gear at the same time, you also get free parts for life. Places like ScubaToys also offer quick turnaround and servicing for $59 + parts - usually parts are $10-25ish more. IDK if they're a ScubaPro dealer but they are for Atomic. Atomic also offers a much more expensive factory service option. One interesting thing about that is the tech who built your reg services it if he still works there.
3. Yoiu can but your dealer needs to be able to service both brands. And be a dealer for both so they can easily get parts. Since the guys who started Atomic left ScubaPro to do so, that's not especially likely to happen..as most dealers sell one or the other. My sense is there's something in the SP non-compete agreement but IDK if that's true. Also carrying costs of stocking 2 premium lines can be high.
Better to buy a lower end ScubaPro octo instead. If you can get a good deal on a regular 2nd stage somewhere just put a yellow hose/color kit on it. It may be your reg if you have to donate your primary so you may want to ensure that it works if ever needed.
Most current regs are interchangeable as long as they work within the same IP (Intermediate Pressure) range so that neither free flows when idle. Some Poseidon models use a downstream valve which is a slightly different design - and although I've seen one used with an Atomic 1st, it was pretty touchy - it would just about start to free-flow when it got near water...
2. Locally works. Ensure that the local shop you use is a certified dealer to keep your warranty intact. If you outfit yourself fully in ScubaPro gear at the same time, you also get free parts for life. Places like ScubaToys also offer quick turnaround and servicing for $59 + parts - usually parts are $10-25ish more. IDK if they're a ScubaPro dealer but they are for Atomic. Atomic also offers a much more expensive factory service option. One interesting thing about that is the tech who built your reg services it if he still works there.
3. Yoiu can but your dealer needs to be able to service both brands. And be a dealer for both so they can easily get parts. Since the guys who started Atomic left ScubaPro to do so, that's not especially likely to happen..as most dealers sell one or the other. My sense is there's something in the SP non-compete agreement but IDK if that's true. Also carrying costs of stocking 2 premium lines can be high.
Better to buy a lower end ScubaPro octo instead. If you can get a good deal on a regular 2nd stage somewhere just put a yellow hose/color kit on it. It may be your reg if you have to donate your primary so you may want to ensure that it works if ever needed.
Most current regs are interchangeable as long as they work within the same IP (Intermediate Pressure) range so that neither free flows when idle. Some Poseidon models use a downstream valve which is a slightly different design - and although I've seen one used with an Atomic 1st, it was pretty touchy - it would just about start to free-flow when it got near water...
It is only important if you are diving very cold water ( below 40 degrees F ) and/or dirty water. A non-sealed piston works excellent for most divers.
Because it is sealed it keeps keeps the reg from freezing & keeps dirt out.
Most normal conditions don't require the 1st stage to be sealed.
You have four options; you can send it back to the manufacture, send it to an authorized service center or take it to your local dive shop. The last option is Do It Yourself (DIY). This option requires proper training, tools & a mechanical aptitude.
Yes, you can use a Scubapro MK25/S600 w/ an Z3, they don't have to be the same brand. However from a service point of view, it may be easier if the regulator system is the same brand.
When i bought my regs in 2003 i did as much research as i could. What made my decision was that thre was no decrease in air delivery to 200 ft. some started gong weak at 100-120. Wigh that i knew that one reg sould supply 2 divers if needed at ,130'. I bought the SP mk25 with the S600. Have never regretted it and now have perhaps 5-6 of them. I do also have one atomic M1. I think that it is a very god reg also. I dont remember why I went away from the atomic in 2004 but i think it was cost fo the Atomics. To thier credit however the idea of recommended maint at 2 year intervals is a big +as compared to the SP.
Even if not diving in cold water, sealed first stage will certainly help to increase the reliability of the FS and can go longer between service. It isn't just "dirty" water it is also sand, salt and other dirt that is always present in water.
Do any Atomic regulators have sealed 1st stages?
Here's a video by Rene Dupre, the technical training manager for Scubapro - MK17 vs MK25
Note: Diapragm 1st stages are more complexed and have more moving parts than piston 1st stages.
The Scubapro MK25 delivers significantly more air than the Scubapro MK17 due to a larger orifice and less resistance. The MK25 works fine in most diving conditions due to its rugged design and few moving parts. The service interval is two years or 100 dives for either one.
If you do proper after dive maintenance, a non-sealed piston regulator is very reliable.
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