Can't decide between these two awesome regulators!

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My next question is about how to choose the octo. Some of you guys mentioned that it's better to have one brand for both primary and octo. Let's say I want to choose a different octo for my Scubapro Mk25/s600, which octo is best and compatible? Because I still don't understand about intermediate pressure and how to find out if different brands of second stage are compatible with each other?

For example can I use Aqualung Titan/Calypso as octo with MK25/s600?

Thanks and sorry if you are confused with question because I also don't know how to explain it properly. I'm still not very familiar with this stuff.
 
Do any Atomic regulators have sealed 1st stages?
It's included on the T2x/T3, ST1 and M1 and optional on all of their line.
Atomic Aquatics Regulator Systems Comparison Chart

---------- Post added December 22nd, 2013 at 09:02 AM ----------

My next question is about how to choose the octo. Some of you guys mentioned that it's better to have one brand for both primary and octo. Let's say I want to choose a different octo for my Scubapro Mk25/s600, which octo is best and compatible? Because I still don't understand about intermediate pressure and how to find out if different brands of second stage are compatible with each other?

For example can I use Aqualung Titan/Calypso as octo with MK25/s600?

Generally most modern 1st/2nd stages function well in a range of IP values so pretty much one is compatible with the other. And can be detuned slightly if needed. If this is the Titan/Calypso you're considering - Aqua Lung Calypso / Titan Octo 128560 at scuba.com it will work fine.
"Diver Adjustable" venturi to prevent unwanted free-flow
is so you can detune it slightly when not using it so it will be less sensitive to pressure changes based on your position or when you first splash - especially off a boat - some regs will start free-flowing on impact with the water. I have mine turned all the way down all the time normally.

Except of course your dealer has to be able to service both brands - and get parts for them. You're choosing two companies that are among the most restrictive in allowing parts sales outside their dealer networks although I understand SP parts can be bought online somewhere now - I don't follow either brand.

Since you're set on the SP Mk25 - maybe look at one their lower priced seconds for the octo. R095 is the least expensive afaik - in yellow with a yellow hose. http://www.scuba.com/scuba-gear-33/035082/ScubaPro-R095-Scuba-Octo.html $139

Personally my Atomic has a yellow face but a standard black hose - in a sharing situation I'm going to control the donation so don't want someone automatically grabbing for the yellow hose. If you find a better deal on a different SP 2nd it can also function as an octo and you can change the hose or there's a slip on yellow hose cover available.

P.S. - check with Casey - beaverdivers - on a price also. He's one of their Platinum dealers and has almost tempted me to switch brands with the deals he offers.
 
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if both can be service easier at your location... just go with... which one look nicer...
 
Here is my take SP has made some excellent gear. At the same they have in NA made some excellent decisions to screw over the consumer. Just look for some threads on their life time parts. For that reason alone I would at other brands. That issue aside their second stages are often clunky. We have been diving AA and have had very good support for them. Not to mention their second stage are a more streamlined design.
 
It's included on the T2x/T3, ST1 and M1 and optional on all of their line.
Atomic Aquatics Regulator Systems Comparison Chart

---------- Post added December 22nd, 2013 at 09:02 AM ----------



Generally most modern 1st/2nd stages function well in a range of IP values so pretty much one is compatible with the other. And can be detuned slightly if needed. If this is the Titan/Calypso you're considering - Aqua Lung Calypso / Titan Octo 128560 at scuba.com it will work fine.
is so you can detune it slightly when not using it so it will be less sensitive to pressure changes based on your position or when you first splash - especially off a boat - some regs will start free-flowing on impact with the water. I have mine turned all the way down all the time normally.

Except of course your dealer has to be able to service both brands - and get parts for them. You're choosing two companies that are among the most restrictive in allowing parts sales outside their dealer networks although I understand SP parts can be bought online somewhere now - I don't follow either brand.

Since you're set on the SP Mk25 - maybe look at one their lower priced seconds for the octo. R095 is the least expensive afaik - in yellow with a yellow hose. ScubaPro R095 Octo 11.330.200 with reviews at scuba.com $139

Personally my Atomic has a yellow face but a standard black hose - in a sharing situation I'm going to control the donation so don't want someone automatically grabbing for the yellow hose. If you find a better deal on a different SP 2nd it can also function as an octo and you can change the hose or there's a slip on yellow hose cover available.

P.S. - check with Casey - beaverdivers - on a price also. He's one of their Platinum dealers and has almost tempted me to switch brands with the deals he offers.

Hi Diversteve,

Thanks again for the reply. So Atomic Aquatics Z3 will work fine with Aqualung Titan/Calypso Octo. Done!
About the Scubapro, I really like it but I'm now leaning towards AA because of the positive feedback from lots of people.
My last question will be, is there a certain type of pressure gauge compatible with AA or SP or any console gauge will work?

Dee
 
Any Atomic regulator I buy, it must have a sealed first stage!

+1
+1
+1!!!

---------- Post added December 22nd, 2013 at 08:24 PM ----------

Some of you guys mentioned that it's better to have one brand for both primary and octo...[if] I want to choose a different octo for my Scubapro Mk25/s600, which octo is best and compatible?I still don't understand about intermediate pressure and how to find out if different brands of second stage are compatible with each other?

Unless you're choosing a special product like the Poseidon Cyklon with an Intermediate Pressure of 160-170, then ANY second stage from ANY current manufacturer can be tuned to match the Intermediate Pressure of your first stage.
The arguments for choosing the same brand are solely for ease of local service. If you can get service, then I'd suggest choosing based on the kind of octopus performance you want.
There are two main arguments here:
A) One group wants their octopus to perform just as smoothly as their primary. This group is often (like me) using a hose configuration other than PADI standard. In other words, instead of planning to hand off "the yellow one", they plan to give up their primary when some out-of-air knucklehead swims up and grabs the only thing they can focus on - your air source! The donating divers know that they will be breathing from their octopus, having given up their primary, and want the best performance they can get while they manage the other guy's emergency. So for them, many have identical or very similar primary's and octopus regs.
B) The other group (just as legitimate a point of view) wants an absolutely fail-safe regulator that will breathe no matter how it's been neglected or has sat unused on your BCD. For these groups, a downstream style regulator fits the bill better than a balanced adjustable second stage because there is virtually no chance that an accumulation of sand or mud or coral fragments will jam the movement of the poppet. If you don't know what I'm referring to, just ask your store to show you cutaway pics of downstream valves versus balanced poppets. Since many unbalanced downstream valves breathe almost the same as their more complex balanced cousins, the reliability factor becomes paramount.

Forget brand choice. Make a decision based on what's most important to you in dive safety.
 
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B) The other group (just as legitimate a point of view) wants an absolutely fail-safe regulator that will breathe no matter how it's been neglected or has sat unused on your BCD. For these groups, a downstream style regulator fits the bill better than a balanced adjustable second stage because there is virtually no chance that an accumulation of sand or mud or coral fragments will jam the movement of the poppet..

I disagree with this statement. There's nothing in a balanced/adjustable design or barrel poppet that's less reliable than a simple downstream. There are over-engineered 2nd stages with seat-savers and overly complex balancing mechanisms that I suppose are theoretically less reliable, or at least more finicky to tune.

I believe that the old-school idea of using an unbalanced octo (an old DIR idea, I've heard) is that in the case of an IP spike, the octo would be more likely to flow than the primary. While this might be factually correct, to me it has no real-world advantage; in fact, balanced 2nds are more tolerant of IP swings and more likely (all other things equal) to hold a tune over long term storage, due to a lighter spring and consequently less seat imprinting.

I have a friend who recently took his D400 out of storage for 6 years, still works perfectly.
 
Can anybody recommend a good pressure/depth gauge? I don't think it has to be an expensive one, right? @Diversteve recommended me to get a scubapro mini gauge and I think it's quite good. Any other recommendations? Thank you.
 
Noblesix:

Go to Dive Gear Express and purchase an inexpensive 2.0 inch or 1.75 inch pressure gauge. Both feature a brass body and a glass face. Personally, I have the 1.75 inch pressure gauge and have been extremely pleased. It's well made and the face is super easy to read. It doesn't have any ridiculous graphics or coloring. It's functional, simple and easy to use.

O.
 

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