My Rix SA-6 Diesel

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To add to the issues that need verification is the positioning of that bleed valve on the inlet side of the filter tower.

If you intended to use it to drain the filter shell down when replacing the cartridge it wont work as the non return valve it's on the wrong side of the N/R seal.

Further if you intended to use it to drain any accumulated water droplets that gather at the bottom of the filter tower to avoid wasting the molecular sieve chemical again it wont work for the same reason given above

But as it looks like a drain has already been fitted from the photo it also looks like it's a stainless knurled knob into the soft aluminium filter base and that wont last more than a couple of hundred turns before it wears out the fine alumnium female thread on the tower and you end up scrapping it. All in all its a poor design of a filter tower IMHO and in addition it looks like its finished in a clear cheap decorative anodize.

It's my understanding that the filter tower should not see any droplets as long as I purge the 1st and 2nd stage often. I would only use the knob to release pressure from the tower in order to change the filter...so every ~ 16,000-20,000 cf or so. (edit: once every 50 hours or so).
 
ugh! need to pay attention to fitting threads.... stuff gets weird quickly...

BTW - August sells both....
 
ugh! need to pay attention to fitting threads.... stuff gets weird quickly...

August sells both....

I should have known. I looked at the schematics of the tower and it says it plain as day "GSP". Really, really dumb move on my part. I think (hope) I'm ok, I didn't torque down the fittings "with everything I've got". It's weird that they didn't feel like they were cross threaded at all, and if I know anything it should be that. The good news is that the npt fittings didn't bottom out, so I hope there's some good threads left in there...I hope.

I believe the Lawrence Factor tower comes with fittings already in and converted to 1/4" npt, I don't know.

Live and learn, I hope whoever comes behind me learns from my mistakes. I'll just get the USIT gaskets vs the copper and call it a day.
 
I was advised to by a long time industry professional.

Just on the BSP fittings, correct? What about ATV sealant on the washers?
 
In my case, for ease of connection, all fittings were converted or transitioned to JIC for any hoses & tubing.
 
Ok, upon further reading it looks like the BSP fittings do not need paste, or ATV. Waiting to hear from August, but should be a machine fit where the washer creates the seal.

If my other fittings leak because of the tape, it's not a big deal to get them apart and use paste. Always learning....
 
You really need to be able to very strongly mate those fittings.... At times, I used a vise to aid in the strength needed to make the connections. NPT and BSP are a beast....
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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