Yhea, but that is not really a result of the computer, that is a result of not checking your gas. Both of which are very important.
DeepBlu Cosmiq....
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Well, found this answer here
"It is the Shearwater philosophy that the diver is in control of their dive and their dive computer. Consequently, the computers will not do anything unexpected or automatically revert to a specific gas at the end of a dive. It is up to the diver to choose their preferred active gas at the start of each dive."
"It is the Shearwater philosophy that the diver is in control of their dive and their dive computer. Consequently, the computers will not do anything unexpected or automatically revert to a specific gas at the end of a dive. It is up to the diver to choose their preferred active gas at the start of each dive."
Right. The SAFEST thing is for the computer to stay however you set it. Anything else can mean you dive with your computer set differently than you thought, and not through anything you did wrong (other than assuming the computer is still set how you left it).
I have done 3 dives with my Atom set to Air when I was diving Nitrox. All 3 times I had set my FO2 on the boat ride out to the site. All 3 times, the 24 hour interval from the end of my previous dive (the day before) occurred between the time I set the FO2 and the time I got in the water. So, thanks to the Atom having a "revert to Air after 24 hours" "feature", it reset to Air on its own, shortly after I set the FO2, and I didn't notice until after I got in the water. Effing stupid. And not cool for screwing up my O2 exposure tracking.
I have done 3 dives with my Atom set to Air when I was diving Nitrox. All 3 times I had set my FO2 on the boat ride out to the site. All 3 times, the 24 hour interval from the end of my previous dive (the day before) occurred between the time I set the FO2 and the time I got in the water. So, thanks to the Atom having a "revert to Air after 24 hours" "feature", it reset to Air on its own, shortly after I set the FO2, and I didn't notice until after I got in the water. Effing stupid. And not cool for screwing up my O2 exposure tracking.
As I said in my previous post, it happened 3 times that I set the FO2 on the boat ride to the dive site. In other words, I actually set (not just checked) the FO2 anywhere from 15 to 30 or so minutes before getting in the water - not 24 hours before. I just had the bad luck of having my 24 hour window expire during that 15 to 30 minute period.
And, yes, it WAS my fault. I am responsible for knowing that my computer works that way, keeping an eye on the surface interval clock, and acting accordingly. But, that feature is still effing stupid. When you're on a boat where the captain is positioning you for a hot drop and about to yell "dive, dive, dive" the diver should not have an additional task to keep up with of "notice that your 24 SI clock will expire 3 minutes before the captain yells "dive, dive, dive" and be ready to set your FO2 during that 3 minute window". Nor should I have to tell the captain "hey, can you and the 11 other divers on the boat delay the start of the dive for a little bit while I wait on my computer to finish counting down 24 hours?"
Good Lord Stuart, my bad. I thought you were saying that you set the FO2 on your computer the day before. My apologies, I misread your post.
PS. The Good Lord is being said honestly and not sarcastically. That IS crap that it would change with in 15min of the dive..
PS. The Good Lord is being said honestly and not sarcastically. That IS crap that it would change with in 15min of the dive..
Unboxed. I'll take it on a night dive tomorrow and hopefully use it in Mexico.
The Android App is tiny bit buggy but works. Pairing was simple. It immediately updated to firmware 0.7.
I changed ppO2 to 1.6 and set a depth alarm to 160ft.
I'd prefer the ability to turn off or even silence (acknowledge) alarms but haven't got in water with it just yet to see how it reacts.
The Android App is tiny bit buggy but works. Pairing was simple. It immediately updated to firmware 0.7.
I changed ppO2 to 1.6 and set a depth alarm to 160ft.
I'd prefer the ability to turn off or even silence (acknowledge) alarms but haven't got in water with it just yet to see how it reacts.
sorry guys...i was a little busy so i didn't check back here
attached here are some screen shot of the app menu. just to show you what it can set or not set.
I was meaning to test out the performance with a zoop, but my buddy didnt bring his dive comp.. so i had to lent out mine.
I only could on and off check what his NDL is. I set the Safety Factor Level of Conservatism to normal to start the first dive and 2nd dive. The first was a shallow dive to around 15m-18m. The second was a deeper dive to around 25m-30m.
I found immediately during the second dive that the NDL was far more conservative compared to the zoop. The zoop was set to air by the way.
I set the computer to progressive before the 3rd dive. that seem to work well, with the rest of the trip ( total 5 dive)
You change the air value by touching the screen and pushing the level up and down. same for the depth alarm etc.
I think the menu is still a little buggy as if you change more then 1 option on the settings, it sometime does not 'take' the 2nd and 3rd.. and so on changes you made. Its better to double check again on the setting menu by disconnecting the watch to the phone and then reconnect it again.
The screen through out the dive were clear and easy to read. it even was clear , as expected in a night dive. The alarm is probably something you have to get used to.. as its a little soft imo and probably because i wear a hood. but still able to hear it...
The log book is intresting, it works like this. first you connect the watch to the phone via bluetooth. then you select sync log. Then the dives will appear on your phone's screen. you can add in items , like dive location and dive site. quite a bit of dive location are already entered. so you can actually search through and find the one you are diving. Then there are a bunch of info you can fill, even include a picture.
then you 'submit' the log. Once you submit then its officially log electronically to an account you created as it just reside in your watch.
This all means that you need to have some data /wifi connection. i had non of that so i was stuck with it till i got back to land.
For battery life as mention in the scubasg thread, it will survive the 5 dives i did probably a little more on one charge. so charging it eveynight will ensure you have thing working fine.
I recommend setting the timeout timing to be the lowest in default...
Now the thing i did not really like is the charging. First, the cable supplied is like 10cm/15cm long. well it short....its a part magneitc and part contact charge. Well, actually it contact charge the magnetic part just keeps it in place. However, i had a little bit of trouble initially to get the contact to 'click' properly in placed. If it click in placed, the screen turn on and then you will see the charging going on... then the screen will die off by itself as it charges. Since the cable it short, you have to keep it close to the USB port power source which probably mean it maybe on the floor or hanging in the air at some places... which bothers me as if it get knocked the magnetic might keep it in place but the charge might not be ongoing. i wish there is some light or some image from the display to show its still charging periodically ...
so far this is what i got... maybe some questions will help job me memory and also provide the next reviewer plan on testing it...
sorry i can't get a really comprehensive test on it...
attached here are some screen shot of the app menu. just to show you what it can set or not set.
I was meaning to test out the performance with a zoop, but my buddy didnt bring his dive comp.. so i had to lent out mine.
I only could on and off check what his NDL is. I set the Safety Factor Level of Conservatism to normal to start the first dive and 2nd dive. The first was a shallow dive to around 15m-18m. The second was a deeper dive to around 25m-30m.
I found immediately during the second dive that the NDL was far more conservative compared to the zoop. The zoop was set to air by the way.
I set the computer to progressive before the 3rd dive. that seem to work well, with the rest of the trip ( total 5 dive)
You change the air value by touching the screen and pushing the level up and down. same for the depth alarm etc.
I think the menu is still a little buggy as if you change more then 1 option on the settings, it sometime does not 'take' the 2nd and 3rd.. and so on changes you made. Its better to double check again on the setting menu by disconnecting the watch to the phone and then reconnect it again.
The screen through out the dive were clear and easy to read. it even was clear , as expected in a night dive. The alarm is probably something you have to get used to.. as its a little soft imo and probably because i wear a hood. but still able to hear it...
The log book is intresting, it works like this. first you connect the watch to the phone via bluetooth. then you select sync log. Then the dives will appear on your phone's screen. you can add in items , like dive location and dive site. quite a bit of dive location are already entered. so you can actually search through and find the one you are diving. Then there are a bunch of info you can fill, even include a picture.
then you 'submit' the log. Once you submit then its officially log electronically to an account you created as it just reside in your watch.
This all means that you need to have some data /wifi connection. i had non of that so i was stuck with it till i got back to land.
For battery life as mention in the scubasg thread, it will survive the 5 dives i did probably a little more on one charge. so charging it eveynight will ensure you have thing working fine.
I recommend setting the timeout timing to be the lowest in default...
Now the thing i did not really like is the charging. First, the cable supplied is like 10cm/15cm long. well it short....its a part magneitc and part contact charge. Well, actually it contact charge the magnetic part just keeps it in place. However, i had a little bit of trouble initially to get the contact to 'click' properly in placed. If it click in placed, the screen turn on and then you will see the charging going on... then the screen will die off by itself as it charges. Since the cable it short, you have to keep it close to the USB port power source which probably mean it maybe on the floor or hanging in the air at some places... which bothers me as if it get knocked the magnetic might keep it in place but the charge might not be ongoing. i wish there is some light or some image from the display to show its still charging periodically ...
so far this is what i got... maybe some questions will help job me memory and also provide the next reviewer plan on testing it...
sorry i can't get a really comprehensive test on it...
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