DIR Regulator set-up

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Originally posted by Frog
Aha it cant be the US4 in that picture because the connection is DIN.I suppose the cold water 1st stage i would need would be the DST DIN? Is there any problem in converting my A-clamp second stages (if there is such a thing) to a DIN 1st stage. how do they get the 1st stages in that pic above to lay horizontal ? i thought it was just a case of tightening them up until they stop (type thing)Ouch my head heh.

Frog,

Apeks sell all their regs in either DIN or A-clamp. If you have an A-clamp reg - look just inside the hole for the A-clamp and you will see a large nut that holds the A-clamp on. You undo this, remove the A-Clamp, then using an allen key you take out the spigot that the A-clamp goes on. Then you screw in the new spigot and Din connector. V. Easy!

As you have the swivel, all you have to do (when you have a DIN reg) is to put the first stage in 90° clockwise to how you would normally (ie hold it in that position and tighten it up in that position!), and using two adjacent ports turn the swivel so they point down!

Simple!

Jon T
 
Thanks very much indeed for your advice guys i really appreciate it. Detroit Diver, i would imagine the wider hose applies for the same reason a snorkel breathes easier with a larger bore. Less friction etc, i have no idea if i am right it just seemed to make sense to me.

Does anyone know where i can find a pic of the TX100 in DIN?
Will the Beuchat Y valve fit any tank i buy. http://www.beuchatdiving.com

Will my second stages bought with the a-clamp TX100 1st stage fit a DIN 1st stage, for example the DST? Cheers fellas

Clarification:- I have the TX100(not TX50)second and first stage.
 
Originally posted by Frog

Does anyone know where i can find a pic of the TX100 in DIN?

Try http://www.apeks.co.uk
Will the Beuchat Y valve fit any tank i buy. http://www.beuchatdiving.com

They come in two types imperial and metric the Metric is 25mm x 2, and the Imperial is round-about 1 inch.

UK tanks have the thread form stanped on them with the BS5045 markings. If it sais M25 then it is metric, and you buy a metric thread Y valve!
Will my second stages bought with the a-clamp TX100 1st stage fit a DIN 1st stage, for example the DST? Cheers fellas

Apeks regs are really good in that they all use the same interstage pressure, and the same threads. Yes you can take the hose direct from the TX100 first stage and screw it into a standard DST first stage.

It is probably just cheeper to convert the TX100 first stage to DIN though (20 quid approx for the bits!) - why bother buying a new first stage? the one you have is quite good enough!

Jon T
 
Cool thanks for the info john.

I dunno really, it just doesnt look like the TX100 1st stage would sit right horizontaly on a Y valve, its just an observation, although quit possibly (and probably) a wrong one lol. I will need another 1st stage any way for the Y valve. Mainly so all the hoses point down, not so much incase i get a free flow.
 
Originally posted by Frog
Cool thanks for the info john.

I dunno really, it just doesnt look like the TX100 1st stage would sit right horizontaly on a Y valve

If the TX100 first stage won't fit then you will have to go with a DS4 NOT a DST 4 as this is the smallest of the lot.

The best thing for the moment is to get the Y valve and try it!

As a personal opinion (treat it for what it's worth!) Y valves aren't necessary. If you are going into a situation where a regulator failure would be so disastrous that you need a second regulator, you don't want to be diving on a single cylinder. If you need a redundant regulator, you need a fully redundant system with redundant air containers as well.

What do you want to do with you single cyl + y valve?

Jon
 
Frog,

Regarding the hose size. The TX-100 comes with 1 or 2 "larger-than-standard" 1/2" diameter hose ports. Hard core DIR advocates don't like this, not because it is prone to fail -- it's just one more unnecessary piece of complexity. Better to have all hoses the same standard 3/8" diameter -- that way, if one fails, it will be easier to replace.

Depending on how closely you want to follow DIR gear config recommendations, this may not be a big issue. The one thing to pay attention to if you are buying a TX-100 is that if you order hoses from some place like 5th dimension, you need to pay special attention to the alignment of the ports on the first stage and the size of the hoses required to fit these ports. I'm not sure if a "DIR-friendly" shop like 5thD carries 1/2" hoses or not. Also, note that many folks will actually mount their TX-100 first stage upside down to improve their hose mounting -- some of this is likely due to their desire to NOT use the 1/2" ports. Perhaps others with familiarity with the TX-100 and DIR can comment here.

Anyway, let me know if you have questions -- I am in the process of buying a TX-100 primary/TX-40 back-up set-up myself.

 
Thanks again fellas for the quick replies :) Cheers for the link and info LD, Jon

Well Jon (if you dont mind my calling you Jon) as i said the Y set-up (probably)wont be needed to isolate a possible frozen/free flowing 1st stage. I want it simply due to the way in which i can make all the hoses point downwards so they wont get caught on overhead objects. I know what your thinking..i shouldnt be going in overhead environments with a single tank and no backup. However i may well want to swim through a small boat or under other divers etc etc and i personally think that it is one less thing to worry about. So with a single tank i will be possibly doing ver "mild" wreck penetration (certainly not cave or cavern), even if i just want to stick my head in a hole to havee a look this makes it much less likely that hoses will be cut or grazed. Then again i suppose you could look at the other side of the coin and say well "if it encourages you to stick your head in a hole then it encourages you to go in further". This of course is true but i have my own mind and i know what not to do and there is no way whatsoever that i would be lured inside a potentialy very dangerous overhead environment (no matter how tame its appearance). The other reason is hydrodynamics, although this is a personel thing and many people will probably think im completely mad that a couple of hoses sticking out sideways ruins your overall hydrodynamics. I think i got carried away LOL!! Apologies if i bored anybody to death heh.

LD what about converting the TX100 to din and turning them sideways like in the picture i provided. ? Maybe i will just sell my TX100 and get a TX50. Apparently the TX100 cannot be stripped any were near as easily as the TX50 underwater. I wouldn't know how to do this YET anyway, but i will soon so its worth planning ahead for me.
 
Hmmm,

I don't know -- I've only borrowed a TX-100 in a pool and can't tell you whether you can mount sideways or not (the owner of the reg set it up for me). The reg I tried had the first stage mounted vertically upside down -- putting the 2 3.8" ports on the right side (looking at the reg from behind the diver) -- these 2 ports were used for the 7 foot primary and short back-up hoses. The lone remaining 3/8" LP port (left side) was used for the BC inflator; HP port on the left was used for the SPG.

Regarding the "sideways" mounting -- are you talking about a Y-valve set-up like in the picture you posted with hoses coming off of each first stage? I guess it would have to be this way -- otherwise you would have hoses sticking straight up off of the first stage.
 
Hey Frog,

I don't think that you would have a prolem with the sideways mounting as long as your TX100 is on a DIN. But then I would have just got the TX50, it's $100 cheaper over here - don't know about your side of the pond.

LD -
5th D does sell the TX100, although as you said, that first stage is not an approved DIR config - so they tend to direct people to the TX50. It was a while ago, but I don't recall a big difference in the field stripping of the 100 vs 50, but I could be wrong - in my recollection at least the TX50 is very similar to the G250 series from Scuba Pro that only has - what - 4 or 5 parts to take apart...

Terkel
 

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