Almost sold on rubber weight belt, but have questions

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I think my concern was not that it might open accidentally, but that if I needed to dump it, that the tang or whatever could pop up under the harness to allow that release.

Any body try to dump it one handed with a harness?
 
If you are comparing this type of buckle to the traditional metal or plastic buckle used on a nylon belt - the similar issue will arise.

If the diver does choose to wear the belt directly under the waist harness of the BP/w or Bc, then the end of the rubber belt would need to be pulled down and out and this would allow the "pin" to pop up. Similar to a "regular" belt.

However, one of the benefits of an elastic rubber belt is that it can be worn low on the hip, even across the buttocks - the belt's elasticity helps to prevent it from sliding down. So, it is quite possible that you may end up wearing the belt just below, rather than underneath the waist harness straps of the scuba unit.

That is how I wear my weightbelt when I (occasionally) scuba dive.
 
Why not use a conventional buckle with the rubber belt? I have a Nemrod rubber belt, circa Ken Lee's SCUBA. Uh, yeah, the weight belt goes way down on the hips well below the plate harness. But, realizing a few things, some people do not have (prominent) hips, their diameter across the waist might be larger than their hips and they might have a short torso. These are reasons among many others that not everybody finds weight belts convenient and seek other solutions.

N
 
I dive a DSS BP/W and have used a Mako rubber weight belt with it for approximately 40 dives.

HI,

1. Is the Marseille buckle safe to use under a harness? In other words, can the "pop up" latch do so under the harness?

I find that I have to unbuckle the harness before removing the weight belt. Otherwise the weights themselves get caught on the crotch strap. The buckle itself isn't the problem.

2. Should I get all Tinman weights? I usually use between 6 and 14 pounds of weight. Are they going to be a pain to add and remove from the belt?

Yes, you should get all Tinman weights, unless you already have conventional hard 5 pound weights, or can get them very inexpensively, in which case you could use a mixture.

3. Why are most all freediving weights uncoated? I have always used vinyl coated weights. I have a three-year-old son in the house and am not thrilled with having uncoated lead around.

I coated mine in plasti-dip when I first got them. It was a nuisance to do and the coating is starting to come off. Over time any lead weights will develop an oxidized surface and tend to be less prone to marking surfaces, etc. I would not coat them if I had it to do over again.

If you choose to coat them, I found that it worked best to suspend them with thin wire, then put masking tape over the slots, then lift the can of plasti-dip around the weight while leaving the weight suspended. They barely fit in the can.

4. Is the rubber belt durable it, or does it crack and breakdown?

I've had mine less than a year. I would imagine it will require periodic replacement.
 
I use a Mako rubber weight belt for both freediving and scuba. I use about 12 pounds of weight when FD, and about 6 when scubin in a 5mm suit. No issues whatsoever. Top notch product.
 
My Mako belts have been doing fine for a few years now. Have never had a concern about not being able to ditch them with a BPW and harness any more than a conventional web belt. Of course I don't really worry about ditching the entire belt where I won't have enough time to undo the waist belt of the harness or just cut the crotch strap to allow it to drop free. Benefit of being properly weighted is having enough time to decide what to do.
 
Why not use a conventional buckle with the rubber belt?

It's probably just a personal preference thing, but the tang/prong/whatever buckle of the MAKO belt is one of the things I like best about it. I have never trusted conventional buckles and have been thrilled to find something better. It absolutely never comes undone on its own (I've seen conventional buckles do that a few times over the years), and it releases instantly when you want it to. The only caution I'd offer on the MAKO belt is that I wouldn't recommend it as much if you have to wear 20-something pounds or more of weight. The belt is fine in place with that amount of weight, but gets stretched an awful lot if you carry it around by letting the weight hang rather than by supporting it from underneath.
 
I suggest staying with a belt buckle style that your buddies and you are use to when SCUBA diving or Freediving.

For Freediving, I use a Marseillaise style weight belt (very thick rubber) with Tinman pinch weights. I paint the weights with exterior paint from Walmart/Michaels $1-2 small container art area. Camo facing outside and yellow inward (I can find easier if I drop them). Need to touch up periodically.

I keep all my lead in a bucket in the garage away from kids and animals. Same when rinsing gear, not in house or near pets outside due to lead rinsate buildup in driveway, frontlawn, etc.

For SCUBA, I use a DumpsterDiver style rubber/nylon belt with a high quality stainless steel quick release buckle. This belt can use any type of weights: pouch, coated, uncoated. Rubber belt connects to SS QR buckle webbing end. Nylon webbing connects to rubber using 2 SS belt slides. Nylon webbing goes through SS QR buckle release end.

I can post pictures later if you need them.

I am a Northern California Kelp diver. I am into comfort. If on SCUBA, I use an SS BP/W with crotch strap. I use the DumpsterDiver style belt for comfort. It is a rubber belt, but the slide portion through QR buckle is nylon. I use XS SCUBA pouches on my rubber belt, filled with shot or solid weights.

For freediving, I use the thickest rubber belt I can find. Freedive Shop, Sacramento. Hermosa Beach also has a very good shop.
 
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You could always add ditchable pouches (variety of manufacturers, I use diverite) to this or a normal belt if you don't want the weight on the bc and are particularly concerned about ease of ditching.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I feel more comfortable about the ditching question. Still not thrilled about the uncoated lead, and the need to rinse this separately. (Surprised there is not more of a hue and cry about uncoated weights, given lead's known toxicity.) Also not sure that paint can contain this. Maybe I can find some vinyl coated lead --not in bright yellow--that will fit a rubber belt.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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