Bubbletrubble
Contributor
Purchasing used scuba gear can be tricky. It helps to know what to look for and the current market value (Ebay, Craigslist) of the items. Rather than give you a checklist of things to look out for, I'm going to ask you to take a more thoughtful approach. Ask yourself, "What needs to be working properly for a BCD to do its job?" If you think about all of the doodads on the BCD and what each of them does, you'll be able to figure out how to test them. In fact, your OW instructor should be teaching you how to do comprehensive functional tests of your BCD during pre-dive checks.Thanks Bubbletrubble! It did not occur to me that I would need a cold water environmentally sealed regulator, but its a valid point, and helps a TON!! Is there a way that I can make sure a used BCD is still in good condition? Or is the only way to make sure to buy one from a local dive store? What age should you look for, should the BCD be 1-2 years old? How old is reliable?
Once again, thanks for the help, this really provides invaluable insight!!
There's enough variety in BCD design that I'd recommend taking an experienced diver with you to evaluate any used BCDs for sale. Stick with the major brand names (Scubapro, Aqualung/Seaquest, Zeagle, etc.). If something needs to be replaced, you have a better shot of being able to source replacement parts. I'd recommend you steer clear of any BCDs that are too old (or even look old, i.e., are faded, cosmetically abused, etc.). Once again, the reason for this is parts availability and the possibility that, if the BC hasn't been maintained properly, more things will need to be replaced in order to make it dive-able (corrugated hose, dump valves, power inflater, etc.). If you're not sure whether a used BCD is dive-able, take it to a trustworthy technician at a local shop who's familiar with the BC. I'd recommend going with a BCD that uses a standard power inflater (which costs $20-$30 to replace completely).
Some people prefer weight-integrated BCDs because they don't like to have to wear a heavy weightbelt. A perfectly acceptable option, particularly for cold water divers needing a lot of ballast, is to use a weight harness like the DUI Weight & Trim in conjunction with whatever BCD you happen to get.
I was trained in a conventional jacket BCD. It worked fine, but I didn't like the way it squeezed me upon inflation. When researching BCDs to purchase, I demoed a couple of different rear-inflate BCDs (Scubapro Knighthawk, Seaquest Balance). Both were excellent, but in the end I purchased a BP/W. Once you are OW certified, join a local dive club to get connected to the local dive community. Not only will this expand your circle of potential dive buddies but it will also increase your opportunities to dive and test out other people's equipment -- local divers that I've met have been very generous with their advice and equipment.
A newbie can be taught to use a DIN-figured reg properly. The key is not to cross-thread the DIN connector when screwing it into the DIN tank valve.
It's possible to find environmentally sealed first stages in either yoke or DIN configuration. FWIW, DIN-configured regs can be adapted to work on yoke tank valves with a convenient spin-on DIN-to-yoke adapter.
The decision to configure a reg as yoke or DIN should be based on the type of tank valve you'll be using a majority of the time.
The HOG regs that I mentioned previously only come in DIN configuration (I think), so it's best to purchase a spin-on DIN-to-yoke adapter in case you encounter any yoke tank valves.
FYI, DIN/yoke convertible tank valves are now becoming quite commonplace in the scuba industry. Check out a picture of the Thermo DIN/K valves at this link.
Dive Gear Express has a nice essay on the topic of scuba valves and regulator fittings.
Enjoy your OW class. Learn as much as you can. Ask your instructor lots of questions. Worry about purchasing gear after the class is done. Have fun!
