Buying own equipment...help please!

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Your follow-up post helps a lot.
I already have a 7mm wetsuit, mask, snorkel, fins, weight belt (some weights, but not enough...), boots, gloves, hood, etc. The water I dive in is anywhere from 55F-75F, depending on the time of year (May-Sept/Oct) and the location. The 7mm suit does a decent job keeping me warm.
This addresses one of the issues boulderjohn raised. A 7mm wetsuit or a drysuit (along with the thick hood and glovces) will certainly have an influence on your buoyancy, and will, in all likelihood, create a substantial weight requirement. For that reason, I would echo the suggestion to at least consider options beyond the jacket. A back-inflate BCD with MINIMAL inherent buoyancy - or even, dare I say it, a stainless steel backplate - should be near the top of a list of things to consider, along with a steel tank, rather than an aluminum tank. For me, a 7mm farmer john / shorty combo is so buoyant with a soft BCD (which is inherently positively buoyant, itself) that I needed an enormous amount of added weight. The SS BP provides some of the needed weight, in a location that is useful, and adds no inherent positive buoyancy, which many jackets and soft back-inflate BCDs add.

To meet your budget requirements, you may want to consider some used gear. And, eBay is a potential source. A word of caution on that approach - you can get good gear, at a good price, on eBay, but you have to be disciplined and patient, and you have to do your homework in advance to know the usual new prices (which you have time to do). Find the lowest on-line price for the item new, and then bid up to only 50% of that value. You will not win everything you bid on, but you won't be exposed to as much buyer's remorse eithjer. I have purchased ~8 regulators on eBay, most of them Zeagle (and I echo the suggestion of a Zeagle 50D as a cold water reg) or Apeks, all of them fully functional, and none of them for more than $170 for a first stage and primary second stage, at a minimum. In most cases the prices were lower, and the only reason for even getting near the $170 was one reg included a full console and an alternate second stage. But, I had to be willing to pass on a number of items I wanted because the prices got ridiculous. The same is true for eBay BCDs / backplates. The good deals are there, but you have to look for them and bid wisely.
I've considered my LDS for sure, they've been fantastic, and they have a spring sale every year.
I would not necessarily wait until the 'spring sale'. I encourage you to give your LDS every chance. Go to them sooner rather than later, tell you what you are trying to accomplish (what you need and what you want to spend), and listen to what they have to offer, including any used gear they may have to sell. Don't necessarily buy until you compare their prices to online prices, just to get a reality check. The LDS prices won't be as low (and shouldn't be), but they should certainly be competitive, and price alone isn't everything. (My LDS sells AL80s for more than any of the big online sites. But, there aren't any shipping costs added, they add in 10 free airfills, and the first years' VIP, so the LDS price is actually lower when all factors are considered.) AND, you will benefit from building a long term relationship. I have purchased all of my new gear over the past 10 years from one LDS, and it has paid off handsomely. I now teach there as well, and staff prices are really good. But, the relationship with the shop and the owner from the very beginning put me in a position to borrow gear a number of times, to try out new gear, get lots of advice and help on gear set-up, etc. If you LDS isn't competitive, then I strongly encourage you to contact some of the highly regarded SB posters, such as Jim Lapenta, to see what can be worked out.
I'm just biding my time, doing some research and trying to get opinions on gear and shops first. I mean, there's no way I'll be diving before May, so I got lots of time.
Good for you. You DO have some time, and can consider a number of options. There are a number of very good brands in the market, and if you stick with any of the 'major' lines you will find that you can get good equipment. You don't necessarily have to keep your gear all in one brand, though. I happen to have primarily Dive Rite, Zeagle, and Apeks, because that is what my LDS carries. But, on any given dive, my rig is a blend of those brands.
Question...will a LDS be able to service any particular brand of gear, or only a select few brands? Or does that depend on the shop itself (i.e., varies from LDS to LDS)?
It does depend on the shop to a certain extent. A number of shops may either be somewhat reluctant to service gear from a manufacturer line they don't carry, or have some difficulty getting parts. And, by the way, I would add Mares to the list of companies that you may want to be cautious with. They distribute very good gear, I love my Mares fins, and have a Mares reg that has given 10 years of great service. But, their parts distribution is VERY spotty. It took me over 3 months to get the reg serviced one time, because of parts back-orders, and shipment omissions. Good gear, questionable follow-up on parts. (When our LDS does a Mares order, it is a minor miracle if everything on the order is actually shipped the first time.)
 
Last edited:
It varies. Shops will have deals/contracts with certain manufacturers that are typically dictated by minimum trade orders/stock levels etc. Many manufacturers will demand minimum orders, for specific trade pricing deals and/or service or supply centre designations. That doesn't necessarily stop the LDS from stocking certain stuff, but may make it unreasonably expensive to do so.
 
I think everyone should own their own gear, and applaud you decision. I am also of the "buy locally" opinion, but I suspect your budget is too low for quality gear unless you can buy some of it used. If you buy anything used, you will want to know how used it is, service records and the like. Used wetsuits have a tendency to lose some of their insulation value, so you will want to know how used they are too. I have no idea of price and availability where you are, so unlike other responders I will not presume to tell you what to buy. I could tell you what I like, even in the moderately priced range, but I don't thank that is helpful. You are better off getting input from people near you who dive in the waters in which you will dive. They will help you make the right choices. Happy Diving!
DivemasterDennis
 
I just sold a set of new high quality gear ( Scubapro ) last night for $995.

B.C. with AIRII, reg and 3 gauge console with SPG, computer and compass. Sorry, no tank, but for another hundred you can get a used one.

Yes, you can get quality gear for under $1000!
 
I'm with Boulderjohn: yes, you will eventually buy all your gear. I honestly don't think you need to buy it all right now, especially the tanks. WRS the tanks, you are probably looking at Al 80's, but as your experience grows, you will look at other tanks, for ex steel 100's or whatever you might like at that time. This will happen faster than you think also. Rent for a while. Only took me a year of diving to buy steels, but I knew what I wanted and what I saw others using, plus I was able to try a couple of tanks from new buddies. I'm in a drysuit and, IMO, you will eventually go in that direction. So just keep your wetsuit for now, not that you were thinking of a drysuit anyway, but it will affect your gear choice.

Weights, I made my own from lead shot ( got it free from a buddy that hunts ), cleaned it all and, $ 6.00 for a little kitchen scale, into geologic sample ( cloth ) bags, secured at the top of the bag with plastic ties. Never comes open. 4lb bags , 2 lb bags, whatever you want to make. Same lead shot, I made ankle weights ( don't need them now ) out of bicycle tubes, ( use double tubes = stronger ) work great and free. All my weights have approx 120 dives on them, still great. Option B: Keep an eye on Kijiji under scuba for weights. Lot cheaper if you can find some.

I would spend my money on a good BCD, ( mine is a Zeagle Ranger ) good cold water reg ( again mine is an Apeks XTX 50 ) and a computer ( Sunto Vyper 2 ). I'm just saying what mine are, there is other good gear out there, but I know mine work and work well for me in a drysuit and cold Alberta lakes and the West Coast.

Also, eventually buy fin straps. One of the best things I have ever bought. Approx $45 CDN. I see so many divers struggling with their fins and the straps that come with them.

Sorry, but I keep adding things. When you buy a dive light, do not buy the kind where the battery is good, good, good and then dead. Buy the kind where the light / battery slowly fades as the battery dies. Found that out the hard way, 60 ft, 5 ft viz and then nothing as the light died in about 2 seconds. Also do not keep your spare light in your pocket that you can't access quickly. Good thing my buddy found me in a timely fashion. You learn as you go :D
 
Last edited:
Because quite often a 'package' will have one expensive item for every bargain one. Shopping around different retailers allows the purchaser to 'cherry pick' the best bargains without getting any sour lemons.
...
Thirdly, most 'packages' are from single-manufacturers. We all know that different brands excel at different items within the range of equipment. I'd buy an Apeks reg, but not an Apeks wing. I'd buy a Mares mask, but would avoid their regs. etc etc
I sat through a week long scuba marketing workshop last year, and the theory of packages was discussed. Here is the very compressed version of what the speaker had to say.

A shop needs to maintain a certain profit margin in order to maintain its financial health. The different things being sold have different profit margins. Some are a bit tight for the shop, but some are huge. Many of the things with the huge profit margins are items that you might not be inclined to buy normally. A package is carefully designed to include items with different margins so that the average margin is within the shop's target. You do get a good break over purchasing each item separately, but you might also be including in your purchase items you might not normally buy, items which are there for the purpose of boosting the average margin.

Next, by pushing specific items through the packages and by staying within the same manufacturing line, the dealer can boost sales of that vendor's products and certain specific items in particular. If it meets certain sales quotas, the vendor will drop the dealer cost and thus increase the margin. That may not be something you as a consumer need to be concerned about if it is a product you really wanted to purchase anyway.
 
If you leave out the computer yes he can. BPW and high performance coldwater reg set for under a grand easy. A computer from Leisure Pro would put him 50-100 over that and he'd not need to upgrade unless he wanted to.

... exposure equipment included?

To each their own. My experience is different - if you need a cold water reg, then you really need cold water exposure gear. No way you include a drysuit in that mix for under a grand. So you either don't need the cold water reg, or you're going to rebuy that suit eventually.
 
All really good points to consider. Thanks!

So if I go with a back inflating BCD, and a cold water regulator, that at least leaves my options open for drysuit and possibly ice diving in the future, correct?

Interesting... :eyebrow:
 
... exposure equipment included?

To each their own. My experience is different - if you need a cold water reg, then you really need cold water exposure gear. No way you include a drysuit in that mix for under a grand. So you either don't need the cold water reg, or you're going to rebuy that suit eventually.

He said he already has a 7 mil. It does depend on how cold of water he wishes to dive in. No reasonable person would think a new drysuit is included in the 1K figure. He'd need to add another grand or so to do that. A number of retailers could include a drysuit in a set of gear that ran 1800-2000 including myself.
 
All really good points to consider. Thanks!

So if I go with a back inflating BCD, and a cold water regulator, that at least leaves my options open for drysuit and possibly ice diving in the future, correct?

Interesting... :eyebrow:

Sending PM.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom